Referenced Figures


Figure 6

Installation Instructions

  • Fasten each wall bracket securely to building studs. Cut sheetrock or wallboard to expose opening for coil connections and support channels. For surface mount, brackets are mounted flush against the ceiling.
  • Place valance coils in hangers.
  • Adjust ceiling baffle to touch the ceiling uniformly through the entire length.
  • Sweat in supply and return mains and adjust nuts on pipe hangers to keep main level.
  • Insulate the supply and return mains with Armaflex where they pass through the wall.
  • Sweat in return main connection
  • Sweat in zone valve and connect to supply main.
  • Connect condensate drain to condensate riser.
  • Hang front edge of valance enclosure on top edge of coil beam
  • Adjust rear clips to give sufficient pitch to enclosure for positive condensate drainage through drain fitting and tubing.
  • Slip wall trim strips to each end of enclosure and adjust for neat appearance.

Installation Instructions (Detailed)

  1. Before installation of valance units, determine if drapes are to be used, or if any wall construction will protrude into room. If either drapes or wall protrusion are planned, locate the wall mounting brackets away from the outside wall by the distance planned. Note that wall mounting brackets may be either surface mounting models or stud mounting models. In Figure 1, the dimension C is a minimum to insure adequate space for air movement. Do not reduce C

  2. If no obstruction exists, locate the stud mounted wall mounting brackets flush against the wall and ceiling. Refer to Figure 2 and note that the wall brackets are left or right hand. Fasten each wall bracket securely to the building studs (BEFORE SHEETROCK OR WALLBOARD IS INSTALLED) with nails, screws, or cement block rivets. Cut out sheetrock or wallboard to expose opening for coil connections and coil support channels. NOTE: Alternate surface mounting wall brackets are required for use on walls where brackets are to be mounted on the surface.

    • Surface mounted wall brackets are required for use on walls where bracket will be mounted on the surface. These brackets should be mounted flush against the ceiling line and meet the distance listed below from the finished wall, drapes or nearest obstruction depending upon the rows of coil. This distance is as follows:
      2 Row: 4-1/2" 5 Row: 8-5/16"
      3 Row: 6-7/16" 6 Row: 10-11/16"
      4 Row: 7-1/2" 8 Row: 14-3/8"

      Drawings for bracket installation are available from the factory upon request.

  3. Coil lengths over 13 feet {For 8 - row coil, use 10 feet) require an intermediate ceiling support (Figure 3) in addition to the two wall brackets. Fasten the ceiling support to the ceiling with screws, hollow-wall anchors, or cement anchors along a chalk line located on the centerline of the coil supports on the two wall brackets. For junior joist construction, use clamps as required to secure the intermediate supports. Alternate "airplane" hangers also are available for special installations requiring support from a parallel wall.

  4. Locate supply and return mains under wall brackets in accordance with piping layout. At least one inch clearance should be maintained between the enclosure insulation and the supply and return mains (including pipe insulation if used). This minimum clearance is necessary to allow correct tight fitting at the wall of the turned-up edges of the enclosure insulation (Figure 1 & Figure 10).

  5. Locate drain hole for condensate line in accordance with the piping layout or by using the fixed drain hole locator (Figure 2} on the wall bracket, if so supplied.

  6. Drill correctly sized holes thru walls for supply and return mains and drain fittings, using piping layout as a reference and table listing shown in Figure 4

  7. Sweat in supply and return mains. NOTE: Supply and return mains within valance enclosure are to be made of rust-proof tubing such as copper. Steel pipe should not be used.

  8. Insulate the supply and return mains where they pass thru the wall with 1-2" minimum Armaflex or closed cell polyethylene (extended 6" into the room). Use half-round wall sleeves where necessary to pass thru partitions. Seal both ends of the Armaflex or polyethylene with several layers of electrician's plastic tape or other acceptable material so as to form a drip bead at the edge (Figure 5). In this way condensate will drip off the bead rather than travel back along the insulation into the partition wall.

  9. Mount the ceiling baffle (bent lip pointing away from coil assembly) to aluminum bolts on valance coil unit assembly BEFORE mounting the coil assembly on the wall brackets.

  10. Install valance coil unit assembly beam channels into the wall bracket support channels (Figure 6). Avoid damaging room walls by tilting coil assembly so that first one end is engaged into bracket supports prior to raising the other end. Inspect channel cross braces to make certain they do not interfere with the coil fins during expansion and contraction of the coil.

  11. After sweating in supply and return lines, install Edwards solid-state motorized zone valve. Part No. MV81SS; the installation may be in positions other than vertical. If Edwards mercury switch motorized zone valve. Part No. MV81, is installed, the valve should be vertical or inclined at no more than 40° from the vertical position. Edwards rotary switch zone valve (manufacturing discontinued) may be installed in positions other than vertical. All of the above zone valves should avoid positions or installation where water may leak into the electrical assembly.

  12. Sweat in copper fittings and tubing for zone valve (two valves on Dual-a-matic) and connect to the SUPPLY main.

  13. Adjust ceiling baffle (Figure 6) to touch the ceiling uniformly thru the entire length by loosening and retightening the baffle holding wing nuts. Slide baffle wall trim against wall on each baffle end. Plastic foam tape is installed on top edge of the baffle to block light passage (Figure 7).

  14. Swing rear enclosure support hooks (Figure 6) on coil unit into vertical position and tighten wing nuts temporarily.

  15. If drain hole in streamline enclosure design is not furnished by factory, drill VA" hole thru enclosure and insulation at drain end (may be either end of enclosure). If an interior drain assembly is furnished with the enclosure, the hole will not be necessary; see Figure 7 afor interior drain position. Install drain elbow fitting being careful not to strip plastic threads. Use plumbers putty or silicone construction sealant to seal between underside of drain fitting flange and enclosure lining. Enclosures 20 ft. or longer must be drained at more than one location;

  16. Lift valance condensate enclosure into position to engage upper front edge of enclosure with upper edge of coil beam (Figure 8).

  17. Lift rear edge of enclosure to engage rear support hooks (Figure 8).

  18. Note for STREAMLINE ENCLOSURE design:
    Adjust rear support hooks to give sufficient pitch (1/4" per 10 feet minimum) to drain enclosure for positive condensate drainage thru drain fitting and tubing. Check pitch with a level and remove any sags or bumps to give a straight run to the drain.

  19. Note for SQUARE ENCLOSURE design:
    Adjust rear support hooks to obtain level outer enclosure location; inner enclosure is automatically adjusted for drainage.

  20. Connect one end of the rubber drain hose to the enclosure drain fitting and the other end to the drain or discharge pipe (Figure 9). Note: If optional drain hole locator is part of wall bracket, position drain hose connection accordingly. Avoid kinks in the rubber hose. If the drain hole locator is not used, or if the drain connection is to be made at the back wall, the centerline of the drain hose passage thru the wall must be at least 1" lower than the drain fitting centerline in order to obtain positive drainage of condensate. Avoid kinks in the rubber hose.

  21. Note that each enclosure is supplied with 4" minimum additional insulating liner at each end of the enclosure. DO NOT TRIM AND DISCARD THIS EXCESS MATERIAL. After enclosure is mounted in place, push the flap of insulation up against each wall to provide a sealed condensate liner. See instruction #25a for insulation splicing procedure if necessary.

  22. Slide wall trim strips (Figure 8) to each end of the enclosure and adjust for final appearance. It is not necessary to use screws to fasten wall trim. If desired, to achieve final wall trim fit to enclosure, use Double-Coat Tape, 1/32" x 1" as manufactured by (or equal) Duraco, Inc., 1025 West North Ave., Chicago, IL 60622, ph. (312) 943-2700.

    Care must be taken not to puncture the waterproof surface of the insulating inner within the valance condensate enclosure.

    To provide continuous insulation in adjoining enclosures longer than 16 feet, insulation is supplied in roll form. At the time of installation, with the adjoining enclosures in place, unroll the insulation within the enclosures. Push the insulation tightly up into the enclosure front lip. Coat lowermost portion of the enclosure with contact glue (3M Company, No. 35 insulation adhesive or equal available through factory) and then shape the insulation to lie flat and to engage the lip at the rear edge of the enclosure. Allow excess material (approx. 4") at each end of the valance enclosure to turn up against the wall or end cap (See instruction #15 for drain fitting installation). See instruction #25a for insulation splicing procedure, if necessary.

  25. The valance insulation (closed cell, cross-linked, polyethylene with a UL94 flame class of 94HF-1 or closed cell, type 300M Softlite ionomer foam meeting Federal Specification EMV SS-302) is self-extinguishing plastic foam (tested for flammability using standard ASTM-D 1692-68) and is heat sealable. If splicing or repairing is required, aluminum foil tape and a flameless heat gun or soldering iron is recommended for joining. An acceptable aluminum foil tape is Type P-11 manufactured by Permacel, US Hwy. No. 1, New Brunswick, N.J. 08903. An acceptable heat tool is Model HG501A manufactured by Master Appliance Corp., Racine, Wl 53403, ph. (414)-633-7791.

    • To join two sections of insulation for watertight performance, cut the two butt edges straight and place both butt ends together. Place the adhesive aluminum foil tape over the seam with an equal amount of tape on each side of the joint. Press the tape firmly into place making sure that the butt ends of the insulation do not separate. If a heat tool is used, direct the hot air along the edges of the tape until the material is observed to shrink. When cooled, this taped construction will produce a watertight joint. CAUTION: Since the temperature of the heat tool is 500 to 750F (14 amps, 120 volts), use protective gloves.

    • If a soldering iron is used, place the fiat surface of the tip of the iron on the tape edge next to the insulation, and slowly move the iron along this edge. Care must be taken to avoid touching the insulation surface directly with the hot iron tip. Repeat on the other tape edge.

  26. If inside corners are to be used, note that all channel for the inside corner is pre-cut. The inside beam is shorter than the outside beam. Two “L” brackets are provided for each inside corner with holes pre-drilled. Mount the valance assembly following instructions #9 and #10. Also follow instruction #3 to install intermediate ceiling supports near the inside corner. Bolt the "L" brackets to the inside and outside of the aluminum beams to form a corner.

    • After all piping connections are made, install the prefabricated decorative inside corner onto the channel, butting the pan to the inside corner. Install splicer pieces at each corner seam. Insulate corner, following instruction #24. Use the same procedure for installing an inside corner.

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